O Caraças

I want to live here. The gracious sisters and kitchen staff who run this place
make it easy for the visitor: “Meat or fish?” There is no menu, no ceremony, and, lacking a sign outside, no other tourists on this misty afternoon.

I devoured a plate of hot, juicy sardines in about five minutes, leading the chef

to pop out of the kitchen to inquire, “Uma mais?” I did a quick calculation (room for coffee, dessert, etc.) and decided this is not a woman you say no to.

“Si.”

Later over espresso and chocolate cake, she saw me playing with my camera. “Voce gosto fotografias?”

“Si.”

She led me by the elbow up some stairs, past the kitchen, and ... how about this? A rooftop terrace with views of the Douro River, with St. John’s Church in the foreground.

So there you have it. The doorway to heaven is on the other side of the white car. All you have to do is say yes.